The Gillespie Pass highlighted the peak of my hiking days in New Zealand for many reasons:
- It was basically the hardest hike I did*
- It was basically the longest hike I did*
- It was basically the last hike I did*
Most hiking enthusiasts I met raved about it. Sure, it was challenging, with long days, harsh alpine environments, and a river crossing that had cost many lives. But the jaw-dropping scenery and complete immersion into the mountains made it worth it, and the opportunity to see it all from a birds eye view made it even more enticing. Yes, that’s right. For as little as $50 NZD (~$36 USD) I could get onto a standby helicopter/prop plane out of the park, admire the terrain from above, and avoid crossing that dangerous river. SOLD
Unfortunately, most of my time exploring Mount Aspiring National Park (one of the areas I was most excited about) was met with cloudy, meh-but-not-terrible weather. It wasn’t ideal, but given time was running out, it also wasn’t an excuse to not explore. In true Lego fashion, everything was awesome, but having recently seen other travelers’ blue sky breathtaking photos of the Matukituki Valley and the Gillespie Pass, both definitely warrant a repeat. Perhaps when I find an excuse to live there over the next 4 years…?
After a day of rest inefficiency and frustration (read: multiple trips to the grocery store, dropping internet connection, closed restaurants, a crashing visa application and a cumbersome birthday present), I finally left late at night for a campsite close to the trailhead. Known for being sandfly central, I didn’t even open my car and went straight into my bed in the back.
Day 1
After a one-way game of tag you’re it eaten alive by sandflies while packing up and making breakfast, I finally set out on the later side. But before I had a chance to download the track notes or give my loved ones all the details, I was in no service territory.
I was unwilling to cross the Makarora river alone or pay $$$ for a boat, so I tacked on 7km to my day with an alternate route that seemed *easy enough* and took me past the Blue Pools, a popular tourist spot.
If you haven’t already noticed, I can be a wee bit too optimistic.
Thirty minutes in, I encountered an assisted climb, the *hardest* part of the day’s hike. Oh and those stupid pools weren’t even that blue. The day’s rocky start made me question whether I should have done this hike at all.
Walking alone, I was consumed by my negative thoughts. But, by walking alone, I eventually became calm, present, and grateful. Brownie points for my biffles Nature and Solitude.
A solid lunch by the river and several hours of hiking later, I finally made it to the Young Hut. Exhausted, I was ready to dig into my Thai Chicken Curry FEAST and get lost in the complex, astrological, Victorian gold-rush world of The Luminaries.
Of course the topic of the weather came up at dinner, and the forecasts weren’t looking good. I had planned for a 4 day hike – cross the Gillespie Pass tomorrow, do the side trip to the Lake Crucible the day after, and get out of the park (preferably on plane or helicopter) on the last day. However, bad weather could mean no planes/helicopters/speedboats to take you out, and a river that’s too high to cross, meaning I could be stuck in the park… indefinitely *gasp*
I exaggerate. But the thought of the stress I’d cause my parents from being unreachable for longer than I told them made getting stuck not an option.
Day 2
I set out early in the morning so I could have the option of going to Lake Crucible if I had the energy. Walking up the Young Valley, you could see where the river started (how often do you see that??). The wall of cliffs surrounding me looked even mightier as they touched the blanket of clouds above them, and the steady wind made me hopeful that blanket would eventually clear.
Despite all the talk about how intense the pass was, the steep ascent wasn’t too bad. Well marked, with multiple pathways and a kickass view, I was at the top before I knew it. And perfectly timed too! The clouds parted for just long enough to take in the vast enormity of the landscape and make me feel like I was in another heavenly world.
The descent was steep yet fun to begin with, but soon became long and exhausting as it kept on going, and going, and going. I can’t tell you how happy I was when I reached the valley floor, took off my shoes, and sat down for my lunch feast. Avocado, cheese, hummus, salami and crackers, I love you.
I was ready to nap and finish the day there, but having passed other hikers who told me about the “surprise” at Lake Crucible and confirmed the worsening weather reports, I decided to suck it up and go for it.
After some refreshing river crossings, I climbed up a steep beech forest, and found myself in a spectacular hanging valley with an even mightier wall of cliffs.
It wasn’t until the very last moment, at the end of the valley, at the rim of the rocky crater, that Lake Crucible finally revealed itself and its “surprise”…
ICEBERGS! SO MANY ICEBERGS! Floating on a glassy turquoise cirque lake within a neck-craning ampitheater of rock and waterfalls. And of course, the clouds started parting and the sun started shining and I was overcome with tears of awe in the presence of Mother Nature’s sublime beauty.
Unfortunately, most of my photos from this unbelievable place randomly disappeared. The horror. Guess I have to remember it the old fashioned way.
The descent went quickly, and after my 5th river crossing I walked in barefoot bliss till the last one. The trail to Siberia Hut was dramatic, with waterfalls thundering down from soaring rock faces, gentle green grass swaying with the wind, and an orange sun illuminating the textures and patterns of everything around me.
Changed and fed at the cozy hut after a 12+ hour day, I spoke at length with a 50+ year old Israeli woman I’d seen the day before, who admitted she was way in over her head with this hike but was still high in spirits. We spoke of mindfulness, her career as a psychologist, and the importance of travel (she’d traveled for extensive periods with her family). Nettra, wherever you are, you sparked a journey I’m so excited to be on 🙂
Day 3
I started the morning nervously optimistic about that standby flight I’d been looking forward to for ages. It was cloudy AF, but it was supposed to clear in the afternoon. I watched most of the hikers leave, prepared to cross the massive river, and continued my heart-to-heart with Nettra (who instead was going to drop $$$ for a limited-space speedboat out of the park)
My hopes were shattered ~1.5 hours later when I learned no one was flying…and I found myself in a wee bit of a pickle:
- The only certain exit option was to hike out; a seat on the speedboat was not guaranteed, nor cheap
- There was a massive, potentially life-threatening, river to cross; definitetly ain’t doing that alone
- The big group of hikers who were going to cross the river were wayyyy ahead of me
So what did I do? I started hiking.
FAST.
And of course, 5 minutes in, this idiot sprained her ankle.
I should have seen it coming. My ankle was weak. I’d rolled it slightly several times before, first during the Routeburn & Greenstone, and then during the Kepler & Matukituki Valley hikes, and actually even the day before as I was descending the pass.
But I had over 25km to go, and no magic wand to take me out of my pickly situation^.
Thankfully, adrenaline allowed me to keep up the pace and trail run wherever I could, wondering, hoping, and wishing at every turn that I’d find the group.
And then, when I heard rustling up ahead and found the stragglers of the group, oh my the sense of relief was like every cell in my body was a troubled teenager trying heroine for the first time (Note: I have never tried heroine and do not encourage its consumption).
When we finally reached the river, we refueled, evaluated our options, linked arms, and began wading.
And soon… WE WERE DONE! HALLELUJAH! Now just 14km to go till my car -_-
Fortunately, I got a ride with my new badass girlfriends (who reassured me that traveling solo in South America was the bomb; thank you ladies you’re an inspiration!). Unfortunately, with my luck, we also got a flat tire.
Finally in my car, smelling like shit, I was hesitant to examine my ankle – my boot had served as my brace, and I still needed to think about dinner, groceries, a place to sleep, and a shower.
After an eternity, I finally drowned the pain away with an ice pack, frozen pizza and a bottle of wine. Glorious.
It was quite an adventure, but like everyone said, oh man was the Gillespie Pass worth it.
Track itinerary: Day 1: Blue Pools trailhead >> Young Hut (27km); Day 2: >> Lake Crucible + Siberia Hut (~19km); Day 3: >> Makarora (26km)
*1. Objectively the hardest, but carrying a terribly packed bag for 5 days felt worse; 2. I probably clocked in a few more kilometers during the Routeburn & Greenstone tracks but that was over 5 days instead of 3…; 3. I was able to snag in one last teeny day hike before I left NZ phew
MJ & the world 
Wow!! So so impressed… How DID you do all of this all by yourself! I feel both exhilarated and exhausted by the thought of this hike!! Fabulous memories to hold on too…..
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