Carretera Austral Pt. 2 – Tortel

There is nothing like this place.

Hidden in the fjords in the south of Patagonia – where lush, rugged lands meet milky glacial waters flowing into the Pacific – lies the isolatedĀ Tortel.

There are no cars, no roads, no wifi, no ATMs, no agriculture, no lifestock, and no more than ~500 inhabitants.

There is wood.

Lots of it.

The place runs on it. Literally.

The abundant Guaitecas Cypress wood fuels the economy, forms the village (with miles of boardwalks and stairs), and hardens the shoulders of the men and women who carry logs after logs, day after day after day.

Read more about my experience here.

Carretera Austral Pt. 1 ā€“ Puerto Rio Tranquilo

I had noĀ idea what the Carretera Austral was.

I figured all the ‘places to go’ in Patagonia were in Argentina and in Chile’s Torres del Paine. I had no idea there was a single 1000km+ road that would take you throughĀ a complete diversity of natural beauty, from glaciers to arid mountain landscapes, lush forests to gigantic lakes (eventually connecting 17 national parks together), and passing through quaint small towns throughout.

I had no idea I’d end up spending 3 weeks here… and that havingĀ no idea about anything would be such a gift. Read more about the first stop of my journeyĀ here!

El ChaltƩn

What a unique place.

Tucked away in the Parque Nacional los Glaciares in the south of Argentine Patagonia, this little mountain village is virtually deserted half the year. Even during the other half, the only two ATMs barely function, credit cards donā€™t work, groceries are limited and delivered weekly, internet is a joke, and pff donā€™t even bother trying to get cell phone service.

On and around the townā€™s one main roadĀ lie most of its conveniences: restaurants, bars, gear shops, hostels, curio stores, and tourist offices. Packs of friendly, well-fed street dogs roam the streets. Turquoise blue rivers form the town perimeter. And of course, the majesticĀ King Fitz Roy sits there in his throne with his bro Cerro Torre, looking overĀ it all.

Welcome to El ChaltĆ©n. Ā 

What started as a purely geopolitical move against Chile in 1985 turned into the nationā€™s trekking capital, a world-class outdoor destination bringing thousands of travelers each year.

Enter MJ šŸ˜›

(^click to read more!)

Behind the Scenes on Traveling in New Zealand

Many have asked me what it was like planning my year of travel and living out of a car in New Zealand for 4 months. For those who are interested, I’ve compiled my responses to some of those questions below šŸ™‚

IMG_1636Why a year of travel? Travel has been a part of my life since I was born, and I knew at an early age that I wanted to spend a year doing something completely different. It was based on the premise that 1) putting yourself in new and uncomfortable situations is a thrilling way to grow, and 2) for the lessons to stick you have to give yourself time; time to disconnect completely from the life you were living, time to explore without direction, time to come to the ‘so whats’ organically. And of course, as I explained previously, I prefer to ask the question ‘Why not’ rather than ‘Why’ šŸ˜‰

2015-10-15-07-11-48Were you nervous?Ā Yes and no. Yes, because it was hard to let go of my wonderful life in New York and because I knew almost nothing about cars. No, because if you knew me youĀ knew I had been talking about this for years. What helped was just taking the leap.Ā It started small (telling my friends and family I was going to do it), got bigger (telling work, not renewing my lease), and bigger (booking my flight, planning & packing), so that when I finally took the last leap to board my one-way flight to New Zealand, there was nothing but excitement.

How did you plan?Ā I didn’t want to plan at all and ended up planning way too much *smh*. The ~2 months leading up to my departure were pure mayhem. Some of it was necessary; a lot of it ended up being completely useless

  • Leaving NYC – Where do I store my belongings (thank you aunt!)?Ā Where do I send my mail (thank you work!)? Where do I stay now that I don’t have an apartment (thank you best sublet ever!)?
  • Logistical planningĀ – Will I get citizenship inĀ time (thank you USA!)? Do I rent or buy a car (thank god I rented!)?Ā Where do I go when I land (thank you Erica!)? Should I do a work exchange during my first month (cue hours of research looking for hosts on WWOOF)?Ā Shit I need to book the Great Walks in advance?!?! How the hell do I pick a date when I don’t want to plan yarggggg (cue getting recommendations from people)!?!
  • traveling-todosShopping – I admit, I had a spreadsheet… I listed all the items I would need by category (electronics, packing/storage, clothes, accessories, toiletries), whether I had the item, and the various options to buy that I’d spent hours researching. It was great for things like finding a travel computer (thank you Asus T100!), or finding the few multi-purpose clothes I’d have to wearĀ for a year. But creating this list also meant spending too much timeĀ buying useless things like the small speakers I used twice, the jump rope I usedĀ thrice, and theĀ mosquito net I used once…

How did you pack and what were your most valuable items?Ā I had my electronics, valuables, and camera in my day pack, and my sleeping bag, clothes, toiletries, and miscellaneous items in my backpack. I got all my car camping gear when I arrived in New Zealand. The most valuableĀ items (aside from my passport & expensive things like my camera etc.) were 1) the packing tubes I used to stay organized, 2) my all-in-one scarf/shawl/blanket, and 3) my foam rollerĀ for that post-hike relaxation šŸ˜›

How did you know where did you go?Ā I didn’t. But thankfully IĀ got some great advice from locals on my first night, I had NZ FrenzyĀ guide me to new wonders, and I had CampermateĀ keep me alive.

nz-itinerary
Covered a good amount but still wayyy more to go

What was your car set up? I put the back seat down, put my bed behind the driver’s seat, my ‘closet’ and ‘pantry’ in milk crates behind the passenger’s seat, and my ‘refrigerator’ in the front seat next to me. For a deeper look into my ‘Cribs’ check out my 6 minute rambleĀ šŸ˜›

IMG_1660

What was your typical day?Ā Usually waking up later than I should, a long breakfast if I had the time, driving while listening to music/podcasts and making pit stops along the way, walking and hiking, yoga, cooking dinner, reading, and sleeping. Maybe a shower every few days. Oh the joys of simple living!

What would you eat? So. Many. Omelettes. The usual hadĀ spinach, mushrooms, onions, and cheese; sometimes I’d throw some broccoli into the mix or have an avocado toast on the side. On the unfortunate days I couldn’t go omelette cray cray, I went with oatmeal and fruit. Lunch varied between vegetable wraps or dope cracker spreads. I had a solid dinner rhythm most of the timeĀ – every 3-4 days I’d find a good enough kitchen to make a big pot of vegetable and mixed bean stew. I’d freeze it in separate containers to give some added power to my ‘refrigerator,’ and simply thaw each day while roasting a side of asparagus and snacking on some cheese and crackers. On other days I’d cook vegetable stirfries, curries, chicken, quesadillas, or throw in the occasional frozen pizza when I was feeling lazy. Nom nom nom no wonder I never ate out except for the odd Ferg Burger šŸ˜›

Where would you sleep?Ā Combination of Department of Conservation campsites & huts, holiday parks, and hostels. Check out my favorite places to stay for more info!

How did you budget? I knew this part of my year was not going to be cheap. Travelers’ average daily spending was ~$100 NZD (~$70 USD), and while some ultra-budget travelers were able to pullĀ off $30-40 NZD (~$25 USD) by couch surfing, cooking all their meals, and doing work exchanges, I had the pleasure of living out of my car šŸ™‚ which meant MAD $$$ towards rent and gas šŸ˜¦ I aimed to spendĀ ~$80 NZD (~$56 USD) daily and was surprised that IĀ ended up under budget, even despite those nasty 1 time costs (read: totaling car, fixing broken phone screen, car battery dying)!

spending-distribution

While car costs made up half of my spending and groceries were frightfully expensive, I was able to save by doing some work exchanges and rarely eating out.

What were the highlights?Ā So many to choose from! Since I was a consultant, I’ll limit it to 3 šŸ˜›

  • Being introduced to the beauty of solitude on the first night in my car in the remote northern tip of New Zealand, and on the epic drive down the 90 Mile Beach the following day
  • Feeling the power of aweĀ while bawling like a little girl on the ridge line of the Kepler Track as the clouds parted and revealed a sea of mountains in every direction
  • Living simply with natureĀ while doing my most challenging hike over the Gillespie Pass (and the clearing of the mind that comes with hours ofĀ walkingĀ alone), and from my general day-to-day lifestyle of cooking, reading, and being outside

What were the biggest challenges you faced?Ā 

  • Anger towards myselfĀ when I totaled (read: full 360 degree flipped) my car, came backĀ with the police to find several items were stolen, and subsequently realized my auto insurance would not cover the damages. I kept replaying the incident in my mind, beating myself up for getting into the mess, instead of feeling grateful that I had survived
  • Guilt and helplessness towards othersĀ when my friend broke her ankle midway down the Gertrude Saddle and had to cancel her grand travel plans. I couldn’t help but feel guilt – for suggesting the hike and for continuing on with my travels when my friend had to go home – while also feeling helpless because it all really was out of my control
  • Anxiety towards limited & non-optimalĀ timeĀ when I didn’t take advantage of a perfect weather day, when I couldn’t fit in all the stops I wanted to make, when the days became limited and there was still so much to do, when I hadn’t done as many work exchanges as I thought I would, and when I didn’t have any big epiphanies about myself or clear ‘takeaways’Ā as this chapter came to a close *chuckles*

Did you ever get lonely living out of a car by yourself?Ā I thought I would, so I armed myself with a massive list of books, podcasts, and activities to keep me entertained. I was so scared of wasting time, of notĀ making productive use of this year of privilege, that I anxiously took people’s advice to find a ‘theme’ for my travels – a skill I wanted to develop, a sector I wanted to explore. Well, all that turned toĀ shit when I realized I never got tired of being alone. In fact, I was craving it. I couldn’t get enough of it. There were so many things I wanted to do (hike, cook, explore, read, meditate, yoga) and not enough solo time to even make a dent in my army ofĀ entertainment. So screw having a theme to my travels, screw trying to get through the never ending list of entertainment. I wanted to experience that feeling of having no obligations and no expectations, even when they were my own. It didn’t come easily and still doesn’t, but with solitude came the freedom to listen to no one but myself, the reality that I had no one but myself, and the slow, gradual, clarity from finally being able to hear no one but myself. More to come…

15 Best Walks & Hikes in New Zealand

I didn’t know tooĀ much about what my year of travel would look like, but I did know one thing: I wanted to be in nature. And man oh man is New Zealand the best playground for that, with the full spectrum of natural diversity within driving distance, a solid outdoor infrastructure (e.g., trails, campsites, huts), and a culture that truly values being outside.

After living out of my car and exploring for 4 months, I came to love every nook and cranny I found in this incredible country, in good weather and bad. So this list of the top 15 walks & hikes* comes with great difficulty –Ā I’ve based it off of natural beauty, novelty, and of course the personal experiences I dealt with along the way that make them extra sentimental šŸ™‚

*For comparison, I’veĀ made the list in terms of specific days as opposes to multi-day hikes. Feel free to shoot me a message with further details on any of the below!


15. BREAM HEAD LOOP TRACKĀ (WHANGAREI)

IMG_1812This half-day hike makes the list for several reasons: it was my first hike in New Zealand, it’s off the beaten path and somewhat tricky to get to, and its 360 degree OH MY GOD views are North Island goodness at its best (read: long beaches, jagged cliffs, mountains, farmland valleys, harbors, boats, surfers, dolphins, an island-studded ocean, seriously how is this possible). Go up the Peach Cove Track, switch over to the Te Whara Track to summit Bream HeadĀ and descend down to Ocean Beach before returning to the car park. There’s an unsigned spur track with some scrambling to reach the summit, but don’t pull an MJ – if it looks like an insane rock climb to get to the top, you’re on the wrong path *eye roll*

14. BEN LOMOND TRACK (QUEENSTOWN)

img_5364Easily accessible from Queenstown, Ben Lomond is probably the only full day hike available to travelers without transportation. While the entire climb to the ~1,750m summit is challenging, I found the first hour on the Tiki Trail to be the hardest part. I wouldn’t change a thing about my hike, but for those who aren’t as jazzed about the sweat-inducing work out, you can skip and take the gondola up to Bob’s Peak to start. Make sure to pack a hat and sunscreen as the trail has zero sun protection, wave to the trail runners and mountain bikers you’ll likely pass along the way, and enjoy the 360 degree ridiculous views at the top!

13. MOTUKIEKIE BEACH (RAPAHOE)

Another hidden gem, 1) because of the ridiculous rock structures, 2) because most people don’t know about itĀ and 3) because it’s only accessible at low tide, revealing so many little treasures (e.g., archways, starfish, crabs, shells)! While this wasn’t a ‘hike’ by any definition, it was definitely a coastline wonder-walk. Plan to go at low-tide and I promise you won’t regret it šŸ™‚

12. WHARARIKI BEACH TO PILLAR POINT (GOLDEN BAY)

IMG_3159I know, WhararikiĀ & Motukiekie are pretty similar when it comes to ridiculous rock formations. But while Motukiekie mayĀ have less tourists and more hidden treasures along the way, it can’t beat Wharariki’s dramatic headland coastline, withĀ towering cliffs, archways, caves, tons of seals, and views of the Farewell Spit & Golden Bay at the Pillar Point lighthouse. Go for this half-day hike at mid/low tide –Ā even if it’s not ideal weatherĀ –Ā look for the colored poles (as the route is not clearly marked), and be careful not to step in sheep poop.

11. KEY SUMMIT TRACK (FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK)Ā 

img_5258-1Considered the most popular hike off of Milford Road, this half-day hike takes you up a series of switchbacks to a playground of lush alpine vegetation, mirror-like tarns, and never-ending alpine views. The guided nature walk is worth its while if you’ve got the time. However, the real highlight of this track is the unmarked trail mostĀ tourists miss, only known to some locals and of course, my handy dandy guidebook. It takes you through panoramic ridgelines, more alpine tarns, and dense bush, offering views of Lake Gunn in the Eglinton Valley and Lake McKellar in the Greenstone Valley. Not to miss!

10. AVALANCHE PEAK (ARTHUR’S PASS NATIONAL PARK)

img_6643I went out with a bang for my last hike in New Zealand, with the challenging, popular hike up to the ~1,100m Avalanche Peak. It’s never ending alpine eye candy as you climb above the bush line, with a rocky scramble right before you reach theĀ summit to 360 degree alpine overload. Go in fine weather only and make sure to say hello (and don’t feed!) the endangered keas, the world’s only alpine parrot šŸ™‚

9. SKYLINE TRACK (WANAKA)

img_5783WhileĀ Royā€™s PeakĀ is probablyĀ the most popular hike in Wanaka, rewarding you with incredible panoramic views after a seemingly never ending slew of uphill switchbacks, the challengingĀ 10-11 hour 19kmĀ Skyline TrackĀ takes you along a view-packed mountain ridge and drops you off at Royā€™s Peak. It was my first long solo day hike and I’m still blown away that running elites can pull this off in ~3.5 hoursĀ -__-Ā Go in fine weather only as the ridge line is somewhat technical, and make sure to figureĀ out transportation beforehand as the track is one-way… or pull an MJ andĀ hitchhike šŸ™‚

8. HOOKER VALLEY TRACK (AORAKI/MOUNT COOK NATIONAL PARK)

IMG_3735It’s understandable thatĀ the Hooker Valley Track is considered one of the most popular half-day hikes in the South Island. It’s easy AF (I ran it the second time around) and decked out with soaring alpine views, insane swing-bridges, glaciers, waterfalls, funky alpine plants, milky blue rivers, morraine-dammed glacial lakes with floating icebergs, and of course, Aoraki/Mt. Cook – the tallest mountain in New Zealand – piercing the sky!

7. MOUNT ALFRED (GLENORCHY)

I’m in love withĀ Glenorchy for several reasons,Ā and this day hike is a big reason for it. It’s easily accessible from Queenstown, a great workout to the 1,375m summit, and situated in between the Dart & Rees River valleys, Lake Wakatipu, and the Humboldts mountains, meaning JAW DROPPINGĀ views. Go in fine weather only, as the last quarter of the hike goes above the bushline into tussock territory,Ā and bring a windbreaker so you can enjoy summit plateau at leisure!

6. LIVERPOOL HUT & ROB ROY GLACIER (MOUNT ASPIRING NATIONAL PARK)

img_5945I did this hike as part of a 3 day adventureĀ into the Matukituki Valley, but it’s possible to do it in reverse in one day (and return the following day, unless you’re a total badass). The walk through the valley is Sound of Music gorgeous and flat most of the way, the steeeeep uphill climb to the hut is intense but ridiculously fun if you treat it as a natural adventure course, and the tiny red hutĀ perched up in the mountains is my kind of heaven. While the Rob Roy Glacier is crowded AF, if you’re lucky you’ll be completely mesmerized by the ~260m waterfall doing it’s dance with the wind!

5. TONGARIRO CROSSING (TONGARIRO NATIONAL PARK)

IMG_2860I’m not surprised that many consider this 19.4km trek the best day hike in New Zealand and one of the ten best in the world. The Martian-like terrain is one-of-a-kind, with volcanic craters, mineral-rich lakes and pools, and expansive views of Lake Rotoaira & Lake Taupo to the east and Mount Taranaki to the west. Not to mention it’s the home of Mordor for all you LOTR geeks šŸ˜‰ Make sure to go in fine-weather only, figure out your transportation plan in advance as the hike is not a loop, and don’t pull an MJ and go with a near empty gas tank

4. LAKE MARIAN (FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK)

IMG_6821Definitely the best half-day hike in my books, and not just because it was just what I needed after my frantic morning. Right off of Milford Road, this trail is steep and all rocks & roots (so much so that I definitely went off course), but in less than an hour you’re rewarded with an emerald blue hanging lake surrounded by an amphitheater of sheer rock and countless waterfalls. Go on a sunny dayĀ and you won’t be disappointed by the magnificent reflections, afternoon lounging, and the refreshing swim šŸ™‚

3. GERTRUDE SADDLE (FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK)

IMG_5065It’s hard to separate the incredible beauty of this day from the absolute nightmare that followed, but when I do it’s clear that the Gertrude Saddle makes it to the top 3. The jaw drops right as you start the hike in a glacial valley right off of Milford Road, surrounded by mountains and waterfalls in every direction. Be wary as you start the ascent up the saddle – the trail becomes harder to follow as there are no permanent markings, and the route can be lethal in bad weather. Along the way you’ll see snow patches, alpine lakes, ridiculous views from where you just came, and waterfalls upon waterfalls beforeĀ being greeted with one of the best views in New Zealand at the top. Be even more wary on your way down, and (please don’t) break a leg!

2. GILLESPIE PASS DAY 2 (MOUNT ASPIRING NATIONAL PARK)

img_6117The Gillespie Pass highlighted the peak of my hiking days for many reasons, and Day 2 was where it was AT. It was the longest hike I did (12+ hours), during which I hiked through the cliff-enclosed Young Valley, crossed over the Gillespie Pass, descended down to the Gillespie & Siberie Streams, and did the must-do side trip to ice-berg filled Lake Crucible in a hanging valley. It’s adventure packed, terrain packed, and view packed goodness, even in the meh weather I did it in.

1. KEPLER TRACK DAY 2 (FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK)

IMG_4738This day changed my life.Ā It was the first time I was so moved by the beauty surrounding me that I was brought to full-on-bawling-tears. Perhaps it was because of the clouds finally parting late in the day when there was no one else on the ridge line, or because it was the first time I was greeted by the highly intelligent keas, or because theĀ mountains seemed to go on for an eternity, covered in lush greens, yellows, reds, browns, and whites, and studded with gorgeous blue lakes. The Kepler Track is a popular Great Walk, and understandably so – that ridge line is etched in my memory forever.