Behind the Scenes on Traveling in New Zealand

Many have asked me what it was like planning my year of travel and living out of a car in New Zealand for 4 months. For those who are interested, I’ve compiled my responses to some of those questions below 🙂

IMG_1636Why a year of travel? Travel has been a part of my life since I was born, and I knew at an early age that I wanted to spend a year doing something completely different. It was based on the premise that 1) putting yourself in new and uncomfortable situations is a thrilling way to grow, and 2) for the lessons to stick you have to give yourself time; time to disconnect completely from the life you were living, time to explore without direction, time to come to the ‘so whats’ organically. And of course, as I explained previously, I prefer to ask the question ‘Why not’ rather than ‘Why’ 😉

2015-10-15-07-11-48Were you nervous? Yes and no. Yes, because it was hard to let go of my wonderful life in New York and because I knew almost nothing about cars. No, because if you knew me you knew I had been talking about this for years. What helped was just taking the leap. It started small (telling my friends and family I was going to do it), got bigger (telling work, not renewing my lease), and bigger (booking my flight, planning & packing), so that when I finally took the last leap to board my one-way flight to New Zealand, there was nothing but excitement.

How did you plan? I didn’t want to plan at all and ended up planning way too much *smh*. The ~2 months leading up to my departure were pure mayhem. Some of it was necessary; a lot of it ended up being completely useless

  • Leaving NYC – Where do I store my belongings (thank you aunt!)? Where do I send my mail (thank you work!)? Where do I stay now that I don’t have an apartment (thank you best sublet ever!)?
  • Logistical planning – Will I get citizenship in time (thank you USA!)? Do I rent or buy a car (thank god I rented!)? Where do I go when I land (thank you Erica!)? Should I do a work exchange during my first month (cue hours of research looking for hosts on WWOOF)? Shit I need to book the Great Walks in advance?!?! How the hell do I pick a date when I don’t want to plan yarggggg (cue getting recommendations from people)!?!
  • traveling-todosShopping – I admit, I had a spreadsheet… I listed all the items I would need by category (electronics, packing/storage, clothes, accessories, toiletries), whether I had the item, and the various options to buy that I’d spent hours researching. It was great for things like finding a travel computer (thank you Asus T100!), or finding the few multi-purpose clothes I’d have to wear for a year. But creating this list also meant spending too much time buying useless things like the small speakers I used twice, the jump rope I used thrice, and the mosquito net I used once…

How did you pack and what were your most valuable items? I had my electronics, valuables, and camera in my day pack, and my sleeping bag, clothes, toiletries, and miscellaneous items in my backpack. I got all my car camping gear when I arrived in New Zealand. The most valuable items (aside from my passport & expensive things like my camera etc.) were 1) the packing tubes I used to stay organized, 2) my all-in-one scarf/shawl/blanket, and 3) my foam roller for that post-hike relaxation 😛

How did you know where did you go? I didn’t. But thankfully I got some great advice from locals on my first night, I had NZ Frenzy guide me to new wonders, and I had Campermate keep me alive.

nz-itinerary
Covered a good amount but still wayyy more to go

What was your car set up? I put the back seat down, put my bed behind the driver’s seat, my ‘closet’ and ‘pantry’ in milk crates behind the passenger’s seat, and my ‘refrigerator’ in the front seat next to me. For a deeper look into my ‘Cribs’ check out my 6 minute ramble 😛

IMG_1660

What was your typical day? Usually waking up later than I should, a long breakfast if I had the time, driving while listening to music/podcasts and making pit stops along the way, walking and hiking, yoga, cooking dinner, reading, and sleeping. Maybe a shower every few days. Oh the joys of simple living!

What would you eat? So. Many. Omelettes. The usual had spinach, mushrooms, onions, and cheese; sometimes I’d throw some broccoli into the mix or have an avocado toast on the side. On the unfortunate days I couldn’t go omelette cray cray, I went with oatmeal and fruit. Lunch varied between vegetable wraps or dope cracker spreads. I had a solid dinner rhythm most of the time – every 3-4 days I’d find a good enough kitchen to make a big pot of vegetable and mixed bean stew. I’d freeze it in separate containers to give some added power to my ‘refrigerator,’ and simply thaw each day while roasting a side of asparagus and snacking on some cheese and crackers. On other days I’d cook vegetable stirfries, curries, chicken, quesadillas, or throw in the occasional frozen pizza when I was feeling lazy. Nom nom nom no wonder I never ate out except for the odd Ferg Burger 😛

Where would you sleep? Combination of Department of Conservation campsites & huts, holiday parks, and hostels. Check out my favorite places to stay for more info!

How did you budget? I knew this part of my year was not going to be cheap. Travelers’ average daily spending was ~$100 NZD (~$70 USD), and while some ultra-budget travelers were able to pull off $30-40 NZD (~$25 USD) by couch surfing, cooking all their meals, and doing work exchanges, I had the pleasure of living out of my car 🙂 which meant MAD $$$ towards rent and gas 😦 I aimed to spend ~$80 NZD (~$56 USD) daily and was surprised that I ended up under budget, even despite those nasty 1 time costs (read: totaling car, fixing broken phone screen, car battery dying)!

spending-distribution

While car costs made up half of my spending and groceries were frightfully expensive, I was able to save by doing some work exchanges and rarely eating out.

What were the highlights? So many to choose from! Since I was a consultant, I’ll limit it to 3 😛

  • Being introduced to the beauty of solitude on the first night in my car in the remote northern tip of New Zealand, and on the epic drive down the 90 Mile Beach the following day
  • Feeling the power of awe while bawling like a little girl on the ridge line of the Kepler Track as the clouds parted and revealed a sea of mountains in every direction
  • Living simply with nature while doing my most challenging hike over the Gillespie Pass (and the clearing of the mind that comes with hours of walking alone), and from my general day-to-day lifestyle of cooking, reading, and being outside

What were the biggest challenges you faced? 

  • Anger towards myself when I totaled (read: full 360 degree flipped) my car, came back with the police to find several items were stolen, and subsequently realized my auto insurance would not cover the damages. I kept replaying the incident in my mind, beating myself up for getting into the mess, instead of feeling grateful that I had survived
  • Guilt and helplessness towards others when my friend broke her ankle midway down the Gertrude Saddle and had to cancel her grand travel plans. I couldn’t help but feel guilt – for suggesting the hike and for continuing on with my travels when my friend had to go home – while also feeling helpless because it all really was out of my control
  • Anxiety towards limited & non-optimal time when I didn’t take advantage of a perfect weather day, when I couldn’t fit in all the stops I wanted to make, when the days became limited and there was still so much to do, when I hadn’t done as many work exchanges as I thought I would, and when I didn’t have any big epiphanies about myself or clear ‘takeaways’ as this chapter came to a close *chuckles*

Did you ever get lonely living out of a car by yourself? I thought I would, so I armed myself with a massive list of books, podcasts, and activities to keep me entertained. I was so scared of wasting time, of not making productive use of this year of privilege, that I anxiously took people’s advice to find a ‘theme’ for my travels – a skill I wanted to develop, a sector I wanted to explore. Well, all that turned to shit when I realized I never got tired of being alone. In fact, I was craving it. I couldn’t get enough of it. There were so many things I wanted to do (hike, cook, explore, read, meditate, yoga) and not enough solo time to even make a dent in my army of entertainment. So screw having a theme to my travels, screw trying to get through the never ending list of entertainment. I wanted to experience that feeling of having no obligations and no expectations, even when they were my own. It didn’t come easily and still doesn’t, but with solitude came the freedom to listen to no one but myself, the reality that I had no one but myself, and the slow, gradual, clarity from finally being able to hear no one but myself. More to come…

15 Best budget places to stay in New Zealand

I have a bit of a love affair with New Zealand. It started in 2001 on a family road trip to the South Island, grew in 2006 on a school mountain biking trip to the North Island, and went out of control in 2015-2016 when I explored the country for 4 months while living out of a car.

People often think I was roughing it out there. Well, they obviously didn’t see the places I was staying. Cue a list of my 10 favorite outdoors spots and 5 favorite hostels – enjoy!

Top 10 Outdoor Spots 


10. WANAKA KIWI HOLIDAY PARK (WANAKA)
– $25/night

As far as car camping goes, this is as glamping as you can get. It’s decked out with a hot tub, sauna, cable TV, unlimited WiFi (a real luxury), a massive kitchen, lots of flowery lounging space, and a short drive away from the Wanaka town center.

Talk about an ideal location to rest a sprained ankle!

9. GODLEY PEAKS ROAD LAKESIDE (LAKE TEKAPO) –  $0/night

I found this freedom camping gem by accident while being majorly indecisive on where to stay in Lake Tekapo. Sure, there weren’t any facilities, but it met all my needs and then some: right by the lake, cheap, quiet, and solid photo opps.

Be mindful of the strong winds and leave no trace (as this is *technically* for self contained vehicles only oops *eye-roll*)

8. TE ANAU LAKEVIEW KIWI HOLIDAY PARK (TE ANAU) – $21/night

My most relaxing days in New Zealand were spent in Te Anau, and this holiday park was a big reason for it. Not only is it complete with kitchen facilities, hot showers, unlimited WiFi, a grilling area, and lots of open green space to set up camp, it also just happens to be steps away from the iconic Lake Te Anau.

IMG_6751_1Make sure to check out the incredible 30 min “Ata Whenua – Shadowland” cinematic experience while you’re there!

7. WHITE HORSE HILL CAMPGROUND (AORAKI/MT. COOK NATIONAL PARK) $13/night

This campsite sits right in the middle of alpine eye candy, with the towering Mt. Sefton on one end, the Tasman valley on the other, and several bombass hiking trails all around you (e.g., Hooker Valley Track, Mueller Hut). The weather can get aggressive (over 100km/hr wind speeds while I was there), so park appropriately, make use of the spacious cooking shelter, and get ready to play 🙂

IMG_3616
6. RAPAHOE BAY HOLIDAY PARK (GREYMOUTH) – $14/night

Hands down best value for money. This charming holiday park has a cozy, spacious, and bright common area filled with books and games, a full kitchen, hot eco-showers, and lots of outdoor play areas. Oh and did I mention it’s right next to the beach where I saw some of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen?

img_6484If the weather’s looking good in Westland, make Rapahoe your base to explore the famous Punekaiki “Pancake” Rocks and the hidden gem: Motukiekie Beach!

5. LUXMORE HUT (FIORDLAND NATIONAL PARK) – $54/night

We balling out. I know the price is steep, but staying at the Luxmore Hut sets you up for one of the most beautiful moments in New Zealand: Day 2 on the Kepler Track. It’s pretty decked out when it comes to hut standards – two floors, recycled homemade hula hoops, informative nature walks, dope limestone caves nearby, and the most entertaining safety briefing I’ve heard from Peter the hut ranger.

2015-12-14-17-47-10Makes sense given the hut receives 8,000-9,000 visitors in season… book ASAP!

4. MOSQUITO BAY (ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK) – $14/night

Talk about secluded awesomeness. While the Abel Tasman track is probably the most popular Great Walk (aka crowded AF), this kayak-only campsite next to a lagoon means low-key, laid-back, chill time. But the coolest thing about Mosquito Bay is actually the tides. The water levels change so drastically that that you can see them rising and falling in front of you. Best of all, the lagoon completely drains at low tide – so surreal!

IMG_30953. KINLOCH CAMPSITE (GLENORCHY) – $8/night

I stumbled upon this campsite while searching for a place close to the Routeburn Track trail head. I have now been there 3 times

IMG_4020img_5608Located at the shores of Lake Wakatipu in Glenorchy, this bare bones campsite surprisingly has it all. Incredible views of the lake and mountains (and a stunning drive to get there), solid fishing, big fat starry skies, friendly locals, showers/restaurant/shop at the Kinloch Lodge next door, and a DECKED out tree house. Seriously, what more could you want?

2. LIVERPOOL HUT (MOUNT ASPIRING NATIONAL PARK) – $15/night

I’d heard from many that I had to go to the Liverpool Hut. I presumed it was because of the hike to get there.

Well the hike was definitely an experience to say the least, but the hut was where it was AT. This tiny red cabin, sleeping no more than 10 people, is perched on a small alpine basin with views of the Matukituki Valley, Mount Aspiring, and Mount Avalanche. Cozied up in the mountains, surrounded by nature, and hanging out is my type of heaven. Well worth the steep uphill climb!

img_5945img_5958Oh and it’s probably one of the best places to take a dump^

1. SPIRIT’S BAY/KAPOWAIRUA (FAR NORTH) – $8/night

Spirit’s Bay takes #1 for me, not only because of the incredible sunsets, funky seashells, and its remote location, but because it was the first night I camped in my car.

It was the first time I had camped by myself, period. It was the first time I had been truly alone. I couldn’t have asked for a more perfect, secluded spot – right by the beach, no-frills and perfectly quiet to let my thoughts and body wander. Be sure to check out Cape Reinga, the northern-most tip of New Zealand, and drive down the 90 mile beach while you’re there!

Top 5 Hostels 

While I would have liked to car camp throughout my time in New Zealand, hostels were sometimes the cheaper option. Other times they were just too good to resist 😉

5. DECO BACKPACKERS (QUEENSTOWN) – $0/night (normally $33)

I found this hostel while searching (and failing) for a place to crash after a long 5-day hike and immediately hit it off with Tim, the energetic and hilarious owner. So much so that I spent almost 2 weeks helping out at the hostel in exchange for free accommodation. Deco Backpackers is perfectly located – within walking distance of the town center yet removed from the chaos of the “adventure capital” of the world – and complete with free unlimited high-speed WiFi, a large kitchen, hammocks, free parking, and some of the best views of Queenstown and the Remarkables mountains.

img_5465Don’t mind the “long term” travelers while you’re there – they’re crazy but fun – and make sure to get to know Tim and his wife Marla!

4. THE INNLET (GOLDEN BAY) – $33/night

I was lucky to make it to Golden Bay – sure, it’s out of the way, but the dramatic coastline and the laid back culture make it 100% worth it. And the Innlet is the ideal combination of both – it begs for mad lounging, with comfy couches, beautiful gardens, musical instruments galore, a quirky and friendly owner, and the finest compost toilet I’ve ever sat in. It’s close to a grooving local bar, a swimming beach, the 30km Farewell Spit, and the incredible Wharariki Beach. If only we could have stayed longer!

IMG_3142 IMG_3159Be sure to grab a bite at the Wholemeal Cafe in the small town of Takaka on your way!

3. SOUTHERN COMFORT (INVERCARGILL) – $26/night

The minute I walked into this hostel, I felt at home. Maybe it was the warm welcome from the sweet elderly owners, or the fact that they’d restored their Victorian villa into a cozy sanctuary. It’s got beautifully painted walls, engraved kitchen chairs, a well tended garden, outdoor seating, free unlimited high speed WiFi, wonderful natural light, and intricately patterned carpets, tablecloths and curtains. Talk about southern comfort!

IMG_4406-0 IMG_4400-0While there wasn’t much for me to do in Invercargill, I couldn’t have asked for a better home base to chillllll out and explore Stewart Island/Rakuira.

2. ALBATROSS INN (KAIKOURA) – $29/night

The caption for Albatross Inn reads “The Hostel With Soul,” and I couldn’t agree more. The minute you walk in, you’re smacked in the face with full on vibrancy of colors, art, light, and warmth. The massive lounging space (with the also massive kitchen) is equipped with musical instruments, comfy cushions, a painting corner, a phone room, and unbelievable artwork created by various travelers. Not to mention the hammocks outside, eclectic rooms, and friendly owner!

IMG_3515Don’t be swayed by the recent earthquake that hit Kaikoura hard AF – the hostel is still standing, the coastline is still effin’ unbelievable, and the baby seals and dusky dolphins should still be playing 🙂

1. JUGGLER’S REST (PICTON) – $29/night

Nothing can beat this small slice of heaven. Small, because the hostel only has 16 beds. Heaven, because of, well, everything this place has and does. On the food front, there’s fresh homemade bread, jam, locally sourced cage-free eggs, tons of free ingredients (e.g., 30+ herbs/spices, flour, etc.), and a massive organic herb/fruit/vegetable garden. On the lounging front, there’s big comfy bean bags and couches, a log fire, books, games, music, instruments, juggling/circus toys, hammocks, outdoor seating, bikes, and beautifully fragrant flowers everywhere. The list can go on and on but I won’t bore you – the atmosphere Nikki, the owner, has created is one-of a kind. GO! GO THERE NOW!

IMG_3281Oh and while you’re at it, make sure to check out the Queen Charlotte Track!